Dienstag, 25. August 2009

Mukdahan on the Mekong

Sleep did not come easily after the wild revelries of the evening before. Pancho woke up several times, each time realising that a strong head cold had snuck up on him, inching its way further and further into his cranium. However, he had no time for idle weaknesses.
Prattling around was not an option on that day. Despite his teaching schedule being deliciously free Pancho was not given the choice of enjoying this time leisurely. He was chased across the tiny town of Punee, to meet all of the important personalities. These ranged from chief of police, to the chief doctor of the hospital, multiple school principles, the mayor and finally also the district governor.
The latter was of greatest interest to Pancho. Despite his eminence not speaking any English whatsoever, the cold having squarely hit Pancho between the eyes and the office’s air conditioning being broken, this visit proved to be the most interesting.
This was simply due to the fact that a fascinating painting hung above the desk of said governor. While this friendly fellow whittled on listlessly in words that required the advisor’s translation, Pancho’s eyes scanned the content of this work of art. It depicted one of the former Kings of Thailand, an educated guess would be Rama the 5th. The interesting thing was his attire however. The figure was not wearing any traditional Thai clothing, but was fully clad in a royal Prussian military uniform together with a highly conspicuous piked helmet resting on his hip.
Pancho was flabbergasted. Here he came whizzing around half of the world to a country that could not be anymore different to the temperate climates of central to northern Europe and what did he find in the district governor’s office? A painting of Thai royalty posing in a glorious set of imperialist military uniform. Fascinating, even despite feeling in the gutter!
When Pancho finally was informed of what words the governor had directed at him his attention sidled to the here and now however and he returned the warmly diplomatic greetings that were extended.
During these these entire visits one thing did catch Pancho slightly. Repeatedly he had been informed of the fact that many of the office ladies he met that day were single and merely waiting for a handsome and gallant foreigner to come in and sweep them of their feet. What disturbed Pancho was that he knew not how to politely decline any interest. He decided that there was no way. And despite fearing any future dangers heading his way in these matters he simply smiled, nodded and refused to show any kind of reaction.
And after a gruelling number of hours the return to the school grounds finally came within reach. Pancho was dearly looking forward to a healing early nights sleep.
However he was rudely shaken from such handsome revelries as his father stood ready, waiting for him to drive to the distant city of Mukdahan. Pancho, hesitant and really in no shape to make such a trip did not show the usual polite eagerness to take part in such an adventure. Alas, it was to no avail. Within 10 minutes father, mother and son sat in the car and had hit the road. Well, something that could notionally be called road. For the first half hour, driving consisted more of evading potholes of tremendous size than anything else.
Dropping away into a slight slumber Pancho also further missed any of the other interesting sightseeing apart from the lush green country side.
Finally in Mukdahan several hours later he was allowed to witness the greatness of the Mekong in full swing. Judging from its girth it looked more like a lake. He was duly informed however that it did not go very deep and that in summer it could be crossed by wading through it (The mention of summer was what actually caught Pancho’s attention. How could it possibly become any hotter than it was already?! What other joys awaited him here?).
Taken pictures of the river was followed by an ample dinner of boiled and fried shrimp. Despite Pancho’s health taking a definite dip south he managed to feast on these dishes and engorged himself without respite. The shrimp, dipped into various sauces were of such divine taste that Pancho was utterly smitten.
As it is with influenza or harsh colds, the spirits generally sink to a low after a hearty meal. And with Pancho it was no exception. The drive home was of a brutality he had not often experienced. Even though it cleared up towards the end of the 2 hour long drive, listening to Thai love songs, he could not shake the impression that it had very likely been unwise to not insist more vehemently on remaining at home that day.
Eventually in bed, Pancho knew full well that the way he felt now the next day would quite likely be a lost cause. And yet, hope always died last.

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